Sew something from a newly purchased pattern is on the schedule for this week and quite honestly I have so many patterns that I had quite the time trying to figure out what exactly I wanted to make. I rarely buy patterns for myself but had received a couple from a good friend. So off to figure out what I wanted to make. I ended up settling on the Cozy Wrap Cardigan from Halla Patterns.
I opted for this pattern over a stack of others 1) because I live in Vermont and I am always cold, 2) I recently lost 40lbs and I need new cardigans and warm layering items because most of my stuff is 2 or 3 sizes too big now.
So next it was off to pick fabrics. I opted for a cozy wool blend lycra I got from Central TX Fabrics (hi Brehan and Justina) that I had been hoarding from one of my first purchases with Central TX. It is lightweight yet cozy and the most brilliant shade of green. For the cuffs, waistband and collar, I chose to use a fabulous print that I was lucky enough to win, called Unicorntopia from MK Designs.
I jumped right in, without making a muslin and it was a HUGE mistake. Completing the first version of this top took maybe 30 minutes of sewing time since I was using a serger. The adjustments I had to make to the top however took quite a bit of time and unpicking bleeping serger stitches.
In the end I started with the size 20 based on the measurement chart provided but it was so big and sloppy. Typically, I have to do a full bust adjustment but with where my measurements fell according to the chart I should have been fine. I unfortunately was not. I won’t say that this is a pattern issue because had I done a muslin; I would have known that the size 20 is way too big and that I would ultimately change the depth of the armscye as well as the shoulder width and take in the waist and hips. I also found that the band was way too long initially causing rippling and for the band to poke out in a strange way (I really wish I had taken photos and not a video since I cant post a video here). In the end I probably need to go down two sizes (and that was with the fabric I was using having two way stretch), but I made the adjustments so the fit is good for me and I am very happy in the end with the finished product. So how did I fix it, I took apart all the seams and basically started over. I did leave the neckband on but I think in the future I will fold over the neck cowl rather than gathering it because I found the neckline to be a bit floppy rather than laying neatly. I cut the depth I needed for a narrower shoulder and using the pattern as a base was able to use my new armscye to create a longer piece (I added approximately 2 inches to the height of the armscye over all). I took away close to 3 inches in the waist and almost 4 in the hips. In the end the overall result has me quite happy. What do you think?