I recently joined the Sew PDF Pattern Showcase as an affiliate so I now get the opportunity to sew lots of small independent pattern companies. As an affiliate I will be receiving a small commission for any sales generated through the links posted.
I’m posting this late so the sale that ran for Buttons and Bibs Versitilitee no longer is running (sick kids and spouses make you loose track of time.)
I was dying to try this pattern because I wanted to use my wine fabric I had been keeping for a bit and I wanted a new lounge shirt (that will go with quarantine loungers soon hopefully.
Sizing runs 00-38+
Front Neckline options: Boatneck, Scoop and V-neck
Back Neckline options: Boatneck and V-neck
Sleeve options: Sleeveless, Short, Elbow, 3/4, long with ruching options for 3/4 and long sleeves.
Side Rouching option
Full Bust Adjustment piece included
Thoughts on pattern fit: I enjoy the overall fit of the pattern. I love that a full bust adjustment is included so that means the only alterations I needed to do right away are for my height. I added 1 inch in the shoulder and 2 at the waist since the pattern is drafted for 5ft 5. In the future, I should do a narrow shoulder adjustment as the shoulder seam sits a bit wide on my shoulders (it is not unusual for me to need to do a narrow or round shoulder adjustment.) Though with knits I typically don’t worry about it, I am pretty happy with the width of shoulder coverage. In the end this pattern will be a keeper to make more in the future for myself.
In the previous post, I mentioned that if your machine came pre-threaded and with the needle inserted into the machine it would be a good idea to to remove the needle and thread so you can learn how your particular machine needs to work through your thread guide. In this post I’ll cover what my grandma always called her rules for sewing. Then we’ll get into how to change your needle, then how to wind a bobbin and finally how to thread your machine.
There are 2 “hard rules” I was raised with when I was learning to sew. I was genuinely shocked to find this advice is not given to people today the way it was constantly reminded over my sewing learning. I think this may be a generational thing because I follow lots of sewists and I’m not sure I have seen these points mentioned a small handful of times.
DO NOT EVER TURN YOUR HAND WHEEL IN A CLOCKWISE DIRECTION, your hand wheel should always be turned toward you (in an anti-clockwise position.)You can ruin the motor of your machine if you turn the hand wheel in the wrong direction too many times.
DO NOT PULL YOUR THREAD BACKWARD OUT OF THE MACHINE. Always cut the thread above/behind the take up lever and pull through the machine if you need to retread the machine. If you pull the thread out through the top of the machine it can cause lint to lodge into the machine and eventually cause problems later.
This is one of the best images I could find for showing you all the parts of your sewing machine. ⁹
***Make sure your machine is turned off when working on the machine such as changing needles, threading and cleaning your machine.
Let’s start with inserting the needle. Your machine most likely comes with a universal needle, which will work fine while you are getting started on projects. You may even have a few extra needles thrown in there. When you go shopping for needles, it can be very confusing the first time (I’ll cover the different types of needles and projects they should be used for in the future) but if your machine came with several needles, they are usually adequate for working with a variety of different types of fabrics.
******The general rule of thumb is to change your needle every 2-3 bobbin changes OR after every project that can quickly dull a needle (thick items; like fleeces, leathers and faux leathers, all dull needles very quickly.)*****
When changing your needle you may want to remove the presser foot so it gives you more room to work with the needle placement. I usually put the presser foot down. Most machines come with a small screwdriver, you may need to use it to help loosen the needle screw the first time you work with this area. You’ll loosen the needle screw (turning the screw toward you loosens the screw and away to tighten) then insert your needle.
When inserting the needle into the machine, you’ll put the needle’s flat side of the shank to the back of the machine. Slide it up then tighten the needle screw, replace your presser foot if you removed it, and now we are ready to move on to threading and bobbin winding.
Next, we are going to load the bobbin. I have included a video link, if you’re a visual learner, it does cover both threading the machine and winding the bobbin. I like to thread my bobbin first and would have done a video using my actual machine but I found a very clear video so I’m happy to use it instead of creating my own.
You’ll put your thread through the bobbin guide, threading through the hole in the bobbin. Place the bobbin on the bobbin pin, pull your handwheel out to the right and push your bobbin (with your empty bobbin) to the right. Holding the end of your thread up you’ll press down on the presser foot until the bobbin is full, machines stop once they are fully loaded. Clip your threads, remove bobbin and make sure to push your bobbin pin and handcrank back into the sewing position. Pop your bobbin into the bobbin casing, make sure to follow the thread path indicated on the machine.
Now we are ready to thread the machine. Most machines come with a thread guide/path on the actual machine for you to follow. You will follow that path in order to correctly thread the machine, again this video clearly shows the threading of my machine, your own machine might vary slightly.
What an exciting time for you! And with the current Stay-at-home orders currently being extended in many places, sewing could be the perfect hobby to get started with. Over the years, I have had several friends purchase machines, people ask me to teach them, and just a ton of questions about how to fix, grade or correct a pattern to get a good fit. I decided it was time for me to go ahead and give a series of lessons and that the best way to do this is via my blog and Facebook page (any live feeds will be added to my YouTube channel with closed captioning with a brief post here to let everyone interested it has gone live.)
This is a project to help out friends getting started with the wonderful world of sewing. I am accomplished in the sense that I have been sewing off and on for over 30 years but really got back into sewing as a regular hobby when my youngest was born. I grew up consistently wearing handmade items from my mother and grandmother. And year after year, I was roped into gift making and crafting throughout my school days. As a young adult, I always worked, rarely giving myself time to indulge in any kind of crafting except handmade cards for people for birthdays and gift giving. Take a look at the photo archives for some of the creations, I have been wearing handmade virtually my entire life.
Once Sweet Pea was born, we realized it would be easier for me to stay home and I set about to figure out a way to enjoy being at home with her when she was napping and between therapies and appointments (one can only nap and read so many books.) Joseph happened to have a small, very cheap and basic sewing machine and I remembered basic sewing skills from all the years off and on. I set about to remember the things I forgot and that is now 6 years ago.
So now that you know my history, let’s talk about you and your new machine. Whatever machine you have purchased it’s really important to get to know your machine, what type of stitches it performs and how to maintain the machine to get the best use and life out of your machine.
Over the years I have seen are 3 different types of people when it comes to getting a new machine:
1.) People that rip into the box and pull the machine out and start fiddling with settings
2.) People that go right for the instruction manual and read it thoroughly before or after pulling out the machine
3.) People that may or may not read the manual but leave the machine in the box for months and months sometimes afraid to get started
I am a #2 person, I get excited and slightly terrified to open and begin using the machine but feel a ton better once I read the manual several times. Which kind of person are you?
Let me start with saying that if your machine comes with a manual that is your best resource when your machine begins to act up.
Let’s assume you have already read the manual and you are ready to get started playing with your machine. Many machines come with starter thread and needles (some even come pre-threaded.) If your machine comes with this set up, I would recommend taking out the thread, bobbin and needle if you are new to sewing so you can practice threading and changing the needle. The next post will cover changing the needle, threading the machine and bobbin.
Take a look at what else comes with your machine. Many machines have a storage drawer either containing a few extra items, sometimes the extra items are bagged separately.
I have a Viking Emerald 116, it is a “basic” machine- meaning it is all manually adjusted. My machine came with a removable machine extender that includes a small storage space plus some additional tools (your machine may come with some of all of these pieces plus small screw drive, small brush for getting lint out of the machine):
What kind of tools or extras came with your machine?
Our next post I will be talking about getting to know your individual machine, how to change your needle, load your bobbin and thread your machine.
I know it’s been a bit since my last post. Quarantine life has been complicated and getting into ANY KIND of routine is hard. I have been sewing masks off and on but I did take some time out to sew for my sweet girl.
We celebrate May 4th in this house like we celebrate a birthday— fun foods, new clothes. With the quarantining we had to go super simple and Sweet Pea was bummed she didn’t get to go to school wearing her new dress.
I participated in the George and Ginger Sew Along for May 4th, which had lots of people sewing a variety of patterns with varying levels of love for the Star Wars franchise.
We love the angled hemline so when Sweet Pea asked that we use this pattern with some modifications, I said sure!
The Emilia has lots of features and was formerly the Gingersnap Dress by George and Ginger.
Sizing now 0-3m through 14. Sleeve lengths include sleeveless, short sleeves, 3/4 and long sleeves.
From the website:
“The Emilia Dress is a mini dress (hitting well above the knee at center front and back) that looks great with leggings, or on its own as a dress for those who are comfortable with the length.
The loose and flowy fit is very stylish and lends itself to a “grow” style—being worn for years, first as a mini dress and then as a tunic. There is a grow cuff option for the long sleeves, allowing them to be folded up at first and then unfolded as the child grows. Other sleeve length options include short, elbow length, and sleeveless.”
I used double brushed polyester (DBP) from Boho Fabrics. They do have a delay on shipping do to the current quarantine but they shipped within the time frame stated on their website. This DBP has a thick in hand feel and lovely drape.
I used a new htv vinyl my husband purchased from Walmart because I couldn’t find what I needed for curbside pick up from Joann Fabrics and I noticed after a few days of wear I need to reapply the heat press. It is very thick vinyl and with applying to DBP I used a lower temp and it’s possible I did not use enough timing for the heat application.
I added length just under the armscye to take the dress to floor length and added a snap on cape.
We finished up the look with a felt mask from a shop on etsy and went outside for a photo shoot!
Oooh it’s been a minute- I have been sewing weekly but it is that chaotic time of year where it’s the perfect storm of sport seasons changing, annual appointments for all of Sweet Pea’s specialists and now with the self quarantining and having to teach school. I’m going to be doing something I have never done before and if you read all the way to the end AND COMMENT, I’ll draw a name for a free pattern from Goober Peas Designs Patterns (the pattern company I used for this post today!)
I love when spring comes. It feels so delightful to be outside with a light weight jacket after being bundled up for so many months on end. But with that shift in weather comes digging through my children’s closets to ensure they have what they need for the weather transitions.
This year Sweet Pea asked for ALLLLLL the dresses. Which isn’t all that unusual for her, she loves dresses. She added she wanted length and twirly to the request.
So this means figuring out new patterns or even better, with all the uncertainty currently going on, digging through the depths of all my patterns and creating fun mash ups.
I decided to fill the request of the wee one I wanted to use bits and pieces of a couple different patterns from Goober Pea Designs Patterns to create a whole new look for her.
I started with the Hip 2 B Square tee which has a ton of features:
Youth sizing of 0-3mo to size 20
Short and long sleeve options
Sleeve colorblocking with optional venting
Full or partial color blocking of the bodice
I opted for the short sleeve (Sweet Pea is not a fan of long and it would have been my preference due to the time of year but she was having none of that) with colorblocking of the sleeve and bodice. I left off the bottom colorblocking panel on the bodice and trued the back to match since I was attaching a skirt to the hemline. I also lengthened the sleeve a bit because Sweet Pea prefers elbow length sleeves.
Next to work on the twirl factor and make a dress from the top. I could have gone with the Addison/Sadie add on pack that would have added a circle skirt but I knew with the request of maxi dress length it meant making an adjustment. So I decided to hack/mash it with the Talia Tiered Dress (which is free to newsletter subscribers.)
Talia has a few fun features:
Sizing from 0-3mo- size 14
Sleeveless, short sleeves, long sleeves
1,2 or 3 tiers to make peplum, tunic or dress length
Since the 3 tiers puts the dress at close to a tea length, I knew it would be easy to add a 1.5 inches to each tier to get close to ankle length. It was soo much gathering. I also added clear elastic when attaching the skirt because I was worried about the weight of the skirts with the added length.
She literally wore this dress for a week straight once it came off the machine so I would say this ended up being a successful mash up!
Welcome to the Spring Fling Blog Hop!
Sew Much Charm kicked off the Spring Fling with the Spring Fling Giveaway! A huge congratulations to the winners: Lorna P. of England & Patti V. of Texas! Each prize package had a retail value of $191!
Let’s keep the fun rolling this week with more sewing and more fun. Sew Much Charm is now also hosting the Spring Fling Blog Hop and I’m going to introduce to you our Bloggers for the Blog Hop!
Be sure to check each day by 6AM (Central Standard Time)! Each day there will be a blogger (or more) doing a giveaway! So be sure to check each blog post & just comment on their blog post from this blog hop and you are entered to win!
So this is one of the few challenge rejected. I did sew a knit fabric, just not what was suggested.
I did use one of my favorite fabric company’s in a strike off fabric Cosmic Fabric Creations that will open up mid-February.
I chose to sew up new slippers for my tiny girl that always has cold feet. I went with the Canmore Cuddle Slippers from Goober Peas Patterns. I love that I can get a slim narrow for for her tiny width feet and ankles. Its the first time we have had slippers that fit more like a sock and close to her body.
I sometimes am lucky enough to get fabrics that my kids get super excited about, like this Ladybug fabric (opening soon from Shear Madness Fabrics) and like to try to use up every last scrap. This is so when they outgrow that epic hoodie or dress or whatever I have made them, they get to keep a piece that isn’t just for wearing. Favorite ways to preserve these fabrics in the past has been using them for chapstick holders, small bags, pencil bags.
I recently got into making patches with the fabric that has larger artwork and it’s something Baby Bear really loves. Here is a tutorial using hot glue and painting but you can easily do the same with fabric. My favorite method is similar to this tutorial using a regular sewing machine. If you are using fabric I would recommend using heat n bond in between the decorative fabric and heavier weight interfacing then stitch around the design. My son prefers a more flexible patch so I just heat and bond the back of the fabric but for a more traditional weight patch, you would need to use the heavier interfacing. Make sure to use a heavy duty, jeans or leather needle as the interfaced fabric can be thick and universal needles will sometimes skip based on the decorative fabric with the interfacing.
And now that Sweet Pea is getting older, I am hoping to get her into patches too. But for now I am happy with inventing a new way for her to play. I took this fabric and fused it with heat and bond then fused to felt for felt story board play.
I sewed around the characters then cut them out as close to the stitching as I could.
And since I gave these to Sweet Pea, she has already engaged in several hours of fun.
Don’t have a felt board like we do, no problem. You can cover cardboard, or poster board with regular eco felt. You can even get fancy and duct tape 2 pieces of cardboard together then cover with felt so that it is a collapsing storyboard to take places with you.
Hours of fun, entertainment, and storytelling just by using a few scraps.
Here we are 3 weeks in to the sewing challenge this year and I am already running behind….
The last couple of years I have tried to literally follow the challenges of the 52 Week Sewing Challenge and if it wasn’t literal then I would mark it as challenge rejected or going rogue. This year I decided that instead of just following along to meet a sewing ideal that I would look at my current sewing and how I could interpret it to meet the needs of the week’s suggested sew.
THIS week is sewing for health or fitness. Many in the group chose to sew with athletic fabric or using patterns that were designed to facilitate a healthy journey. I did see some fun sews that assist with both like a running belt and lunch boxes. I went a some what more vague route by sewing pajamas for Sweet Pea.
I chose to interpret this as being sewing for health because it is necessary to have warm clothing for our very cold winters here in New Hampshire. I was fortunate enough to be brought into a current pattern test with Eunoia Patterns to take photos of a soon to release night set (Goodnight Darling Robe and Nightgown set) and I knew that it would be the perfect pattern to stretch the definition of this week’s sewing challenge.
From the Eunoia Website:
“The Goodnight Darling Robe and Nightgown is a nostalgic nod to long ago with a lovely floor length robe and sweet tea length nightgown. This delightful pair is perfect for flannels, eyelet lace, embroidery or vinyl embellishments, vintage buttons and even matching doll looks for your child to match their doll.”
Sizing is 2t-20 and the relaxed fit allows for comfort while playing and sleeping. We found it was perfect for all the playing that Sweet Pea likes to do before story time and bedtime.
We love the sweet details from the ability to use piping to the offset bodice of the nightgown and sweet gathers at the wrist.
I also love how the robe can be paired with favorite rtw pajamas we already own to give a tad more warmth.
Check out this sweet pattern while it’s on sale for $7.50 (regularly $12.00) with a code in the Facebook Group to get the dolly pattern for free during the release sale. The doll pattern is priced at $2.50 and also includes both the nightgown and robe as well.
This week my son and I worked together with some amazing World of Warcraft fabric to finish a shirt we started the week before. The fabric is an open preorder with Shear Madness Fabrics
We had to add some width to the panel and stuck with a staple favorite of Lucas’ Ellie and Mac’s Chill Tee and Hoodie. Lucas really loved how the Murloc panel looks and immediately had to put it on once it was finished.